Nepal Kayaking - January to April 2017 - Trip Report

I spent four months kayaking and photoboating in Nepal during early 2017, with a big expedition crossing Nepal border-to-border during the middle of this period.

Below I’ve provided some brief notes/logistics on the rivers I paddle, many of them over multiple day self-supported trips. The rivers seemed slightly easy to me than suggested by the guidebook but this may be because I paddled many of them in low water. Costs given below always include kayaks and transportation times should be considered with a pinch of salt as these are always very variable in Nepal! In general taxis from the bus stations/drop-off points to hostels were around 400rs in both Pokhara and Kathmandu - this didn’t seem to vary depending on how many people you were.

Trishuli - Grade 4

Paddled several times - local buses from Kathmandu to Mugling should be around 300 to 400rs per person.

Lower Marysandi – Grade 3+

Started from Chumlingtar on the Trishuli, bus to Mugling was 50rs per person. A jeep then took us to the Marysandi valley for 1300rs (for the 3 of us). Finally we caught a bus to Bhode Oder for 250rs per person.

Upper Marysandi – Grade 3+/4- (started from check point)

The jeep to Chudi was 1300rs per person but this may have been overpriced. It seemed there were also buses runnign that way.

Madi - Grade 4

The taxi from Pokhara to the town closest to the river cost 1000rs (for 3 people) and took 45 minutes. The jeep to the dam took an additional 1hr and cost 2000rs (for 3 people). We paddled all the way to the main road in a long day, finishing in the dark.

Modi – Grade 5 (Upper Upper), 4+ (5-) (Upper)             

Bus from Kathmandu to Syuli Bazar takes 3.5hrs and cost 300rs per person. The trek to New Bridge was 2hrs and we hired porters for 2000rs per kayak. You can keep walking up past New Bridge for more G5. At the end the bus from Nayapul to Beni cost 150rs per person.

Upper Myagdi – Grade 4+/5

Probably the only river harder than the guidebook suggested - we ran it at level 5 on the gauge. The river was also full of consequences - it was not a fun paddle.

Bus from Beni to Darwang (not Darbang as guidebook says) took 2hrs and cost 500rs per person. The road is particularly poor. A 25 minute jeep ride is needed to access the end of the road, cost 1200rs for 2 of us. The guidebook implies you should be heading for Bim/Bima but this is wrong - Bima is nowhere near the river, ask for Chara instead. We found porters in Chara for 2000rs per kayak for a 3.25 walk to Kumla bridge.

Lower Myagdi – Grade 3

From the take-out a local bus to Pokhara was 300rs per person.

Balephi - Grade 3+

The local bus from Kathmandu to Balephi was 300rs per person. Some locals then offered us a free ride up the valley but we paid them 1000rs as a thank you. There are also occaisionally buses up the valley.

Bhote Kosi - Grade 5 (Uppper Upper), Grade 5 (Upper), Grade 4/4+ (rest)

Paddle as part of the Nepal traverse. I can’t remember the cost of the bus to Bahrabise at the bottom of valley but it’s not much further on than for the Balephi. From Bahrabise it is possible to get buses or jeeps up the valley to the border. 

Sun Kosi - Grade 4 (5)

Paddle as part of the Nepal traverse.

Sapta Kosi - Grade 1

Paddle as part of the Nepal traverse. Very difficult to arrange transport back from the end due to strikes - we were assisted by the military and ended up in a Tatra truck. It took 2 days to get back to Kathmandu!

 Lower Karnali - Grade 4 (4+)

I worked this this trip as a photoboater - it took 20hrs to get from Mugling to the get-on by private bus.

Tamur - Grade 4+

I worked this trip as a photoboater. It took 21hrs by private bus to get from Mugling to Basantapur - however this included changing buses at one point and picking up some of the group from the airport.

From Basantpur to Poke Godre it took another 3.5hrs on a second bus. You could walk from here if you wanted (the raft gear was taking in to the river side via a different road). The hike from Poke Godre to Dovon (the get-on) took 7.75 hours and includes 2500m of descent.

The river is kayakable above Dovon. A couple of us took a jeep for 15 minutes (400rs total) and then started walking on the other bank - there was a track so vehicle access may be possible. I’m not sure where we put on in the end but it was below Thumma - the river was continuous and fast G4 from here down to Dovon.

Upper Kali Gandaki - Grade 3 (4-)

I paddled this twice, both times as a photoboater. Unfortunately I didn’t keep any notes.

Lower Kali Gandaki - Grade 2 (3)

The bus to Pokhara cost 500rs per person and took 4.5hrs. The bus back from Naranghat took 4hrs and cost 400rs per person.

Tamba Kosi - Grade 4+/5- (5)

Microbus (direct, no stopping) back to Kathmandu from Manthali cost 850rs per person - the last bus was at 3pm.